Do ya'll take extra precautions when hunting in wet weather? Last year it rained or snowed nearly everyday of deer season. This is in no way traditional, but I have found that my rifle (cap lock) will still fire with a layer of plastic wrap (Borden Sealwrap) around the lock, and over the cap. I carried it with one load down the barrel until the last days of the season before I took a shot and it went off as if I had just loaded it.
On percussion and flintlocks I use "muzzlemitts" to seal the muzzle.
On percussions, I then use those little slip on silicone / neoprene "quick seals" over the nipples and the entire barrel is air tight, water tight, etc.
On flintlocks, I use muzzlemitts and in damp weather keep the lock assembly up under my coat against the warmth of my body, but I don't hunt flintlocks in acually rain, just temporarily switch back to percussions.
I use a lock cover and or keep the lock (flinter) under my sleeve/blanket wrap, I prime with 3f which does no draw moisture as easy, I drill out the vent holes to 5/64 and if the rain is really bad I try to find a tree, overhang, snag or some kind of cover and wait for the deer to come to me more than I would during drier days, or hunt the tall timber or some kind of terrain that offers some protection.
TXbowhunter, it's a leather cover that fits over the frizzen and lock, thus keeping the priming load dry. Generally the leather is treated with a heavy coat of bear grease, bee's wax or other substance to waterproof it. The barrel and stock can be coated where the edges of the cow's knee meets the rifle to help seal out moisture.
Weasel is pretty much correct Txbowhunter but he didn't get it quite right.
It is that part of the rear leg on a cow, deer, elk, etc. that has a natural 'bend' where the bottom portion of the leg swings forward. It forms a natural 'arch' that almost exactly fits over the lock mechanism of a flintlock (or cap lock) rifle.
The hide is cut out with a slit on the inside so that the 'arch' is intact, scraped and left to become 'rawhide'. This leaves the hide very stiff (like plastic) and, when it is spread apart and placed over the lock, it will stay in place.
You can waterproof it however you like (I prefer wax since I don't want to soften the rawhide), pierce it with a hole so that a leather string can be attached to it and your trigger guard.
This accoutrement is very old, very traditional and very easy to make. Apart from that it looks really spiffy on your shootin' iron.
I believe they make the plastic equivalent nowadays but I prefer the original as we are dealing with 'traditional only' here.
Post by TXbowhunter on Oct 31, 2004 18:46:18 GMT -5
Thanks for the explanation. That's very interesting. I would like to start muzzleloading, I would like to start with a more traditional rifle than the in-lines everyone is using. I like the looks of Lyman. I don't know how traditional I will get with it, but I at least want the rifle to be less modern.
"When a hunter is in a tree stand with high moral values and with the proper hunting ethics and richer for the experience, that hunter is 20 feet closer to God." Fred Bear
Well here in Pennsylvania we have two deer seasons for muzzleloaders, the early season which anything goes as long as it is a muzzleloader(us flinters were not to happy with that), and we have our late flintlock only season.
When out hunting and the weather turns sour, I put my flintlock under my coat flap. When weather is wet from the get go, I carry my rifle in a leather sheath with mink oil rubbed on it.
It is not how big the gun is, but how well you can place the bullet, practice, practice, practice.
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