Post by bowhuntingnut on Jun 5, 2005 2:12:44 GMT -5
i have never relay been into hunting geese but after my dad backed out of a bear hunt(long story but don't get me going on the sob) him and my uncle are begging me to go on a goose hunt in September. all i have for a 12ga is a 870 turkey exp with a short barrel and a x full choke not the best goose gun. i do have a 870 20ga with a 28 in barrel but i have heard not so good things about using a 20ga. my dad has been letting me use a Remington 1100 12ga for deer hunting and was going to let me use it for snow goose hunting last year but the hunt didn't work out and i never went and he wasn't going, this hunt he is and he will be using that gun. so any advise one what to use of the gun's i have? also i have nothing to hide but i suck on fast moving target's that fly so any idea on how to put the hurts to them and not look to bad to the guide? i guss you can say i am a virgin to hunting waterfowl and i could use any advise one might have. thanks for any info you might have. bow
the 20ga won't cut it.... and the X-full choke on the 12ga will not tolerate steel shot.
I think you need to borrow a 12ga pump or semi from someone....... You have to know someone with a 12ga 26" or 28" smooth barrel.
3" shells will be fine.... 3 1/2" would be a little better (not needed though!!). Use #2, #1, BB, BBB, or 'T' shot sizes in steel (obviously).
go shoot some clays if you can.... doesn't have to be fancy. You could even buy a hand thrower for under $10 bucks and have someone throw a box of clays for ya' (probably cost you a 12 pack ;D).
when shooting at flying geese the "lead" is hard to figure because everyone thinks they are flying slow because they are so big, but trust me they are moving! Most people hit them in the rear end because they don't lead them enough and are aiming at the body.
If you are taking shots swinging across the body (left or right) just put the bead of the barrel right on their white cheek patch and keep swinging through the shot, you'll hit them in the body/neck depending on distance. If they are landing in your face just put the bead right where the body meets the neck and pull the trigger...... WHAMMO! ;D
BowHuntingNut, Your first comment was that your 870 has a short barrel, exactly what is the barrel length? With todays modern powders it may still be okay for goose hunting. I know people who use 24-26 inch barrels and do just fine.
You could purchase a different barrel and then your 870 will be good to go. And if you have screw-in chokes, I would consider either an "improved cylinder or even a cylinder choke" for use with steel.
If you are working with a guide, most will bring the birds in nice and close. The more open choke will help.
As for practice on hitting targets, two things come to mind: Buy a cheap "bat type" kite, it will be about the size of a Canada goose. With the kite flying about 30 yds in front of you, you can get a size perspective. Now shoot the kite. Check your hits. Most people will be surprized as to how few of their shot actual hit it. You can do this until you bust-up the kite or get board.
Next would be shooting at ballons. They are cheap and with a little breeze they will move just enough for you to get the idea. After which, I would go to a trap range and and ask if they could "lock" the target launcher to throw "straight aways". Stand on "Station #3 from the 18 yard line and shoot at these until you feel comfortable. These targets will only be rising until they peak at which time they will begin to fall. Try to break the target either just as it peaks or before it peaks. No forward lead is required only vertical lead. Cover the bird with the barrel squeeze the trigger and keep the barrel moving upwards. When you can break 3-4 in a row move to position #5 shoot again.
At this position, the target will be moving "left-to-right". You will need to provide some forward and vertical lead. "How much you ask?" Well, most people will tell you "2-3 feet in front of the target." But what does 2-3 feet look like when your 30+ yards from your intended target. Rule of thumb (for each it is different) 1 barrel width of a 12-gauge shotgun is about 1 foot at 30 yards. This would mean that you should be 2-3 barrel widths in front of the target when you squeeze the trigger. Then "BIG" thing here is that now you would be trying to "AIM" a shotgun to get 2-3 barrel widths in front. This will surely cause you to miss "behind" the target.
So here is a little tip, most always you will try to start your gun in front of your target, this usually holds true when shooting at a "clay target" game. When shooting at a duck or goose from a field blind and not being able to see where they are or where they are going, we usually bring our gun up from behind the bird. Now the tip, as you bring the gun up from behind and "swing" (from the waist not the shoulders) think "BUTT, BODY, BEAK, BANG". meaning see the barrel pass from back of the target, through the target, "past" the beak swing a little faster and squeeze the target. When you break the target, try to remember the "sight picture." What did you see when you pulled the trigger. Try to repeat that same process.
Remember the shot gun shoots what is referred to as a "shot string", meaning "the pellets do not arrive all at the same time." With a shotgun it is good to shot too far in front than in back.
Now that your comfortable with Station #5 move to Station #1. This is the same as #5 except the target is appears to be moving "right-to-left". Apply the same principles as #5.
Remember, swing or turn from the waist, keep the barrel of the gun moving towards the beak and beyond, "butt, body, beak, bang".
If a trap field is not available, then you could use "low house" Station #7 on a skeet field. Use low house from Station #6 and High house Station #2. The biggest problem with the skeet field is without an "open" choke it is harder to break your targets. Although there are those how will tell you that you don't need it. But the margin for error is very small which means fewer broken targets and then "getting down on yourself."
In any case, a new choke may be all you need for the gun. But as for you, a little practice on easier moving targets. And remember if you talk to your guide they can drop the birds in your lap and you will do just fine.
This is about spending time with your dad and uncle, the geese are only their to add a little to some great time in the field.
By the time a man realizes his father was right, he has a son who thinks he's wrong
Post by bowhuntingnut on Jun 8, 2005 4:15:20 GMT -5
thanks guy's i will have to get out and find a skeet range (there isent any real close but i am sure i can find one) thanks for all the help. i understand what you mean smoke i just know that i am going to get harased by my uncle and dad if i waste more shell's than geese lol i know it will be a blast i have never been a good shot at flying game but put a bunny on a run and give me a snap shot and its all over for bug's. thanks agian . bow
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